ornament, (chest? back?)

ornament, (chest? back?)

ornament, (chest? back?)

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Introduction

A ceremonial ornament made of woven beadwork separated by panels of quill-wrapped yarn, the whole attached to two bands of finger-woven red yarn with white bead infill. From the Eastern Great Lakes region, Hodenosaunee or Anishinaabe. This ornament was part of a collection loaned to the Pitt Rivers Museum by Colonel Shirley in 1952 and purchased from his son, Major Shirley in January 1966.

Nation of Origin

The GRASAC research team agreed that it most resembles items from the Eastern Great Lakes region and these are the largest two nations in the region.

Date Made or Date Range: 1770s to 1820s
Summary of Source(s) for this Relative

Pitt Rivers Object catalogue and observations made by the GRASAC research team.

Materials

woolen yarn, red and blue; wampum or tile beads, blue, medium green, white and black; porcupine quills, red, white and blue; silk ribbon, red and ivory; metal cones.

Techniques or Format

The ornament is composed of three panels of woven beadwork separated by panels of quill-wrapped yarn, the whole attached to two bands of finger woven red yarn with white bead infill. Several construction techniques are found on this ornament: white beads are interwoven in the finger woven straps, panels are made of loom woven imitation wampum beads, and sections of quill-wrapped yarn are also found on the item. As well, warps of finger woven straps are carried down through the ornament, then alternately woven into imitation wampum, wrapped with metal cones, and terminate finished quill wrapping at the ends. The outer edges of loom woven panels are bound with silk ribbon.

Motifs and Patterns

The strap has parallel zig zag motifs. The beaded panels have horizontal "X"s.

Original and Subsequent Uses

This item may have had a gorget attached to it (RP). It was likely an ornament worn on formal or ceremonial occasions. (Pitt Rivers Museum Object Catalogue entry)

Other Notes

CW has never before seen silk binding directly on loom woven beadwork.

Dimensions: 86 × 0 × 0 cm
Condition: Poor, fragile. The silk is badly deteriorated. (Heather Richardson, PRM conservator)
Reasons for connecting this relative with particular times, materials, styles and uses

Based on stylistic features.

Catalogue, Accession or Reference Number: 1952.5.07
Collection at Current Location: Shirley Collection
Date of Acquisition by the Institution: 1966
Who the Institution Acquired the Relative or Heritage Item From: Colonel Shirley via Major Shirley
Date Relative was First Removed or Collected from its Community Context: before 1952
Collection Narratives and Histories

This item is part of a collection loaned to the Pitt Rivers Museum by Colonel Shirley in 1952 and purchased from his son, Major Shirley in January 1966. There is a possibility that this coat was formerly owned by James Bisset and acquired by Colonel Shirley through the Leamington Museum. (Pitt Rivers Museum Object Catalogue entry)

Publication History

Mowat, Linda. "Painted Coats for a Coronation? (Research Notes)," Journal of Museum Ethnography 8 (1996): 109-110.

GKS Reference Number: 25263
Record Creation Context

This record was created as part of a Great Lakes Research Alliance for the Study of Aboriginal Arts and Cultures (GRASAC) research trip to the Pitt Rivers Museum and British Museum, December 8-22 2007, funded by a grant from the International Opportunities fund of the Social Sciences and Humanities Research Council (SSHRC).

Record Creation Notes/Observations

researchers present: Heidi Bohaker (HB), Al Corbiere (AC), Stacey Loyer (SL), Janis Monture (JM), Laura Peers (LP), Ruth Phillips (RP), Anne De Stecher (AS), Cory Willmott (CW).

Approximate Place of Origin

43.0703, -80.1184

Source of Information about Places

The GRASAC research team agreed that it most resembles items from the Eastern Great Lakes region.