Woman's bodice with spangles, ribbons, and talisman of beads

Woman's bodice with spangles, ribbons, and talisman of beads

Woman's bodice with spangles, ribbons, and talisman of beads

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Introduction

A Mesquakie woman's shirt with silk ribbons, appliqued floral motifs and a loom-woven geometric panel. Collected by Mary Alicia Owen near Tama, Iowa in the late 19th century. Acquired by Cambridge University's Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology in 1976.

Nation of Maker: Other
Reasons for connecting this relative with particular nation(s)

Mesquakie - from museum documentation. The Mesquakie are Great Lakes people who settled in the Plains, having moved to Iowa during the 1850s.

Date Made or Date Range: 1870 to 1900
Summary of Source(s) for this Relative

Museum documentation and the GRASAC research team.

Materials

light-weight royal blue wool; silk ribbon, red, light blue; wide red brocade? ribbon; grey-green floral patterned ribbon; white cotton lining; large metal sequins or disks; glass beads in opaque white, medium (greasy?) blue, green, rose, orange, red and greasy yellow; glass button; thread

Techniques or Format

This shirt is made of wool and lined with cotton. Single lines of blue and red ribbons are sewn horizontally along upper part of the shirt, just below the neckline, which is edged in red ribbon and closes with a small button or snap. The ribbons hang loose at both ends. Above the blue ribbon runs a row of metal sequins or discs, which turns into a double vertical row when they reach the arms of the shirt. The floral motifs on the front are sewn on to wool backing. There is a loomed beadwork panel sewn to the centre front of the shirt. On the back are two vertical lines of a floral patterned ribbon, both flanked by a double rows of metal sequins or disks. A double line of cream and red ribbon runs horizontally near the top, with extra ribbon on both sides hanging loose, similar to the ribbons on the front. A line of metal sequins or discs run in vertically inward arcing lines on both sides of the back. The bottom is edged with a line of wide red ribbon or brocade, topped with a row of metal sequins or discs on the back side.

Motifs and Patterns

Floral and otter-tail motifs.

Other Notes

It appears that the floral glass beaded motifs on the front were cut from an older piece and appliqued to this shirt.

Catalogue, Accession or Reference Number: D 1976.147
Date of Acquisition by the Institution: 1976
Date Relative was First Removed or Collected from its Community Context: 1850-1900
Collection Narratives and Histories

Collected by Mary Alicia Owen near Tama, Iowa in the late 19th century. Acquired by Cambridge University's Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology in 1976.

GKS Reference Number: 1320
How to Cite this Item

Unknown Mesquakie artist, Woman's bodice with spangles, ribbons, and talisman of beads. Currently in the Cambridge University Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology, D 1976.147. Item photographed and described as part of a GRASAC research trip May 2009; GRASAC item id 1320.

Record Creation Context

This record was created as part of a GRASAC research trip to Cambridge University's Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology, May 4-9 2009.

Record Creation Notes/Observations

Researchers present: Trudy Nicks, Stacey Loyer, Ruth Phillips, and Rachel Hand.

Approximate Place of Origin

43.7918, -84.2994