Commercially tanned cowhide in tan. Thinner, red, upholstery hide has impressed stripe. The underside is roughly finished, which is unusual of commercially tanned hide. Multicolour size 8 seed beads and tubular size 6 beads. Rough hemp and linen interfacing underneath beading is appliqued as well as a printed paper (newsprint). Heavy cotton or linen thread. Leather backing on panels.

Plains style added to shirt type that is of an earlier style. Beadwork is in geometric rows, not loomed; appliqued. Loom woven style may have been adapted to applique (CW).

FRINGES are inset into the seam. Of varying lengths on arm holes and around shoulder (inserted) and outside of sleeve (continuous along the arm). Fringes on the ends of sleeve and end of shirt are continuous with body. Cuff fringes are finer and thinner.

Sides not seamed but have leather tabs (5 pairs of holes for tabs but only 2 or 3 remain); tabs are thongs knotted. The flap - triangular pattern may be reference to a traditional style; ornamental scalloped bands on cuff has cut exposed at the edge at dyed part (may have been rushed); everything is large -- to be seen from afar; left side f3 fringes formed in braid on back (about 5 cm away from corner).

Sleeve panel - symmetrical from centre front; repeating diamonds with equidistant crosses; in reverse space which form horizontal hourglasses, there are various stripes and triangles; panels flanking central chest panel are symmetrical from centre with stepped diamonds on either end there; rectangles and paired triangles. Red leather has deliberately rounded scalloped pattern (technique) - perhaps reflection of a deep tradition of wavy lines (energy lines). Back of shirt has red leather turtle; claws on turtle are separate (underlayed)

LD: The turtle is of no real significance; just an afterthought as it is an occasional garment that is not worn frequently. If there is significance, turtles often have 13 panels within but this is just a silhouette. CW: May be a reference to turtle and Sky woman? AC: There are many versions that don't reference the turtle and Sky woman. This is a theatrical constume but often there were symbolism and images include which have specific meaning to more local audience.

Probably used in Hiawatha pageant -- regalia.

The cuff is older because it is worsted twist with size 8 seed beads - very similar to two coats from 1812. Shirt is part of a complete outfit (see III-G-36, III-G-37a,b, III-G-38). Very heavy.

Obtained from Thomas Aptasweh ("Little Current"), Ojibwa of Manitoulin Island.

Tercentenary, Pembroke (?)

CMC catalog record.