moccasins, quill embroidered

moccasins, quill embroidered

moccasins, quill embroidered

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Introduction

A pair of late 18th century moccasins, one piece construction, with quill embroidery on the vamp and heel seams. This style of moccasin has been attributed to the Anishinaabe of the central and eastern Great Lakes. Based on their similarity to moccasins collected by soldiers who fought in Haudenosaunee/Hodenosaunee territories during the second half of the 18th century, they may be Haudenosaunee/Hodenosaunee.

Reasons for connecting this relative with particular nation(s)

Based on their stylistic similarity to Anishinaabe moccasins. The centre seam construction and the quilled motifs bear a resemblance, stylistically, to moccasins collected by soldiers in Lord Amhearst's army, who fought in Haudenosaunee/Hodenosaunee territories during the second half of the eighteenth century. This suggests they may have been made by a Hodenosaunee artist.

Date Made or Date Range: 1760 to 1800
Summary of Source(s) for this Relative

Museum documentation and the GRASAC research team.

Materials

native tanned medium brown deerskin; porcupine quills in black, yellow, red-orange, yellow and white; sinew

Techniques or Format

one piece construction with centre heel and vamp seam; one row of zig-zag band quillwork on centre seam and on heel seam, single quill zig-zag or domed lines on either side of heel seam and vamp seam. A "U" shaped bordering line of red single quill around the zig-zag band that covers the puckered portion of the toe ends in double curves

Motifs and Patterns

Zig-zag and domed lined, double curves

Additional Context

the vamp design suggests a horned serpent

Other Notes

No quill ornament on the cuffs. This is unusual and suggests these moccasins may have been sold unfinished.

Condition: Very good, the hide is extremely supple and soft
Reasons for connecting this relative with particular times, materials, styles and uses

Based on the materials and the style of the quillwork. The moccasins' shape bears a resemblance to a pair of moccasins in the New France collections at the Musée du quai Branly.

Catalogue, Accession or Reference Number: Z 35125.1-2
Date of Acquisition by the Institution: unknown
GKS Reference Number: 25989
How to Cite this Item

Unknown Anishinaabe/Hodenosaunee/Haudenosaunee artist, moccasins, quill embroidered. Currently in the Cambridge University Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology Z 35125.1-2. Item photographed and described as part of a GRASAC research trip May 2009; GRASAC item id 25989.

Record Creation Context

This record was created as part of a GRASAC research trip to Cambridge University's Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology, May 4-9 2009.

Record Creation Notes/Observations

Participants: Trudy Nicks, Laura Peers, Alison Brown, Sherry Farrell-Racette, Rachel Hand, Ruth Phillips, Stacey Loyer, and Amber Berson.

Approximate Place of Origin

46.8139, -71.208