moccasins, beaded

moccasins, beaded

moccasins, beaded

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Introduction

A pair of moccasins with floral beadwork incorporating gold foil centre to achieve greater brilliance. The floral beadwork style, inset vamp construction and use of commercially tanned hide are consistent with Haudenosaunee/Hodenosaunee manufacture but the colours and fineness of the beadwork are unusual. A note inside one moccasin,"French Canadian half caste," suggests they were possibly made by a Métis artist. Acquired by the Cambridge University Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology in 1922 from Cole-Ambrose.

Nation of Maker: Métis Hodenosaunee/Haudenosaunee
Nation of Origin

The construction and materials of this pair of moccasins are typical of Haudenosaunee/Hodenosaunee work. The unusual design and tag inside the moccasin stating "French Canadian half caste" suggests a possible Métis origin.

Date Made or Date Range: 1875 to 1900
Summary of Source(s) for this Relative

Museum documentation and the GRASAC research team.

Materials

commercially tanned hide; white cotton; red silk ribbon binding; light blue polished cotton; cardboard; gold foil; gold and silver metal sequins; very small glass beads (size 18 or 20) in opalescent white, translucent pink, red, light blue, orange, mustard, green, and opaque pink, orange-red, dark blue and green.

Techniques or Format

inset vamp, one piece cuff, beadwork sewn on to white cotton cloth and then sewn to vamp and cuff

Commercially tanned hide has been used to make the vamp, and was possibly used for the body of the moccasin as well. White cotton has been added on top of the vamp and the cuff. Red silk ribbon binding lines the top of the cuff, and light blue polished cotton lines the inside of the shoe. Cardboard is visible between the cuff and lining. Pieces of gold foil are visible through some of the beadwork motifs, adding extra glitter to the moccasins.

Motifs and Patterns

Flowers, buds, stems, and 'sunburst' motifs.

Other Notes

There is a very unusual use of foil under the centres of four of the large flowers on the cuffs and the ankle end flower on the vamps. The style of the floral images is also a variation in colour and in shape of motifs found on Haudenosaunee/Hodenosaunee beadwork.

Dimensions: 25 × 0 × 10 cm
Condition: Good. There is some separation of the lining and crumpling of the foil.
Reasons for connecting this relative with particular times, materials, styles and uses

This attribution is based on the use of commercially tanned hide and polished cotton lining,

Current Location: Cambridge University Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology, UK
Catalogue, Accession or Reference Number: 1922.836
Date of Acquisition by the Institution: 1922
Who the Institution Acquired the Relative or Heritage Item From: Cole-Ambrose
Date Relative was First Removed or Collected from its Community Context: 1875-1922
Collection Narratives and Histories

Acquired by the Cambridge University Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology in 1922 from Cole-Ambrose.

GKS Reference Number: 25565
How to Cite this Item

Unknown Hodenosaunee/Haudenosaunee/Métis artist, moccasins, beaded. Currently in the Cambridge University Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology, 1922.836. Item photographed and described as part of a GRASAC research trip May 2009; GRASAC item id 25565.

Record Creation Context

This record was created as part of a GRASAC research trip to the Cambridge University's Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology, May 4-9 2009.

Record Creation Notes/Observations

Participants: Trudy Nicks, Laura Peers, Alison Brown, Sherry Farrell-Racette, Rachel Hand, Ruth Phillips, Stacey Loyer, and Amber Berson.

Approximate Place of Origin

44.736, -88.788

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