Fine scarlet broadcloth with black mohair warp threads in the selvedge (5/8 inch wide; has an unusually soft brushed finish), medium width ribbon (black, navy, dark green, turquoise, cream, peach, salmon), cotton thread, embroidery thread (black, yellow, red)

Sewn in running stitch from bottom cuff to near top; this seam curves in at the ankle, in contrast to the cut of the leg flap, which curves in towards the cuff from the widest point at the ankle. Ribbonwork is sewn in medium bands of color without bead trim. Chain stitch embroidery decorates the top edge of the ribbonwork around the cuff. Edges are bound with ribbon. The ribbonwork panel extends to 4 inches from top edge. Ends of ribbons are cut straight with no apparent cut desgns.

Cuff pattern consists of a row of black triangles topped with rows of diamonds in pink, dark green, cream, navy, salmon, and turquoise, respectively. The final row of ribbon is cut straight at the top and decorated with chain stitch embroider along the edge and in diagonal lines from the top of the turquoise diamonds. The pattern on the side panel consists of alternating pairs of diamonds with elongated diamonds on the vertical axis in rows of dark green, pink, turquoise, black, cream, salmon, navy and black, from the outside first. The pattern on the back is simply columns of diamonds in navy, salmon, dark green, cream, black, pink and turquiose, respectively. The top edge of the leggings is the selvedge of the cloth.

CW

Pep Grodka, Helen; Gift/Presentation

This record was created on site at NMAI by the GRASAC members listed below. Ann McMullen and Pat Nietfeld of NMAI supported the research onsite. Cory Willmott's research was funded by a grant from the American Philosophical Society. Southern Illinois University Edwardsville provided Cory with an RA, Ceara Horsley, in Fall 2008 to work on GRASAC data entry. (CH)