Coarse red stroud with corded list (1.5 inch wide list), "HB stroud" (medium green stroud--badly faded on outside of leggings), silk ribbon (black, crimson, medium green, blue, musarad yellow (faded to pale yellow in places), pale pink, paler green, blue), size 13 white beads (for edging), and size 15 for bead embroidery, green wool twill tape, manufactured silk tassels, coarse blue-black linen

Green and red wool segments sewn together (edges butted together and sewn--visible inside); viewing from one side, leggings are mostly green and from other side, mostly red. Top sections are cut with self tabs with silk tassels at end. Seams between upper and lower parts covered with mosaic ribbonwork with individual fabric diamonds edged with white beads. Cuffs and all outer edges edged with 1.5 inch ribbonwork panel (with white bead edging around elements); ribbonwork panels/tabs are bound with contrasting color silk; white two-bead edging on all outer edges of legging. Glass beads sewn through silk and into wool cloth as if it were hide: stitches do not go through the underlying wool layer and only the tying-off knots are visible on the back. Wool tape ties attached at top (one in two pieces and tied; other a continuous loop) . On mostly red side, edge panel and its associated beadwork on edge panel extends all the way to the top (near hip) in a simplified form. Outer seam sewn closed all the way from top to bottom.

Two sides described separately! Mostly red side: upper red and lower green parts divided by mosaic of ribbonwork diamonds each edged with white beads (starts on mostly green side and wraps down leg). Beadwork on ribbon panels: overall pattern of intersecting green and red waves joined/parallel at top) create eye shapes; at intersection of eye shape, on outside, alternating pattern of crayfish flanked by double curve elements and simple loops flanked by double curves. Each eye shape frames a pair of opposing crescents. End of tabs differ: one is stached "fiddlehead" curls, other is stripe flanked by waves. Mostly green side: ribbon/beadwork panel ground is crimson, every other motif is cross terminating in three multicolor petals; in between these, two similar motifs alternate: 1) clockwide spiralling four-petal motif with fiddlehead curls between each petal and 2) counterclockwise spiralling motif composed of four elongated diamond shapes with fiddlehead curls between each diamond.

AM; CW

NMAI records state that the items was purchased in 1924.

Museum Purchased.

This record was created on site at NMAI by the GRASAC members listed below. Ann McMullen and Pat Nietfeld of NMAI supported the research onsite. Cory Willmott's research was funded by a grant from the American Philosophical Society. Southern Illinois University Edwardsville provided Cory with an RA, Ceara Horsley, in Fall 2008 to work on GRASAC data entry. (CH)