buckskin coat

buckskin coat

buckskin coat

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Introduction

Fringed hide jacket with brass buttons collected by Oronhyatekha who identifies it as the type worn by "Coureurs du bois." Darts and seams around bust and waist suggest it may be a women's coat, similar to one from the collection of Evelyn Johnson. Dr. Oronhyatekha Ethnology collection.

Date Made or Date Range: Early 20 C to Mid 20 C
Summary of Source(s) for this Relative

GRASAC generated.

Materials

Home tanned hide (deer or elk). Pockets made of coarse light brown canvas, 6 brass buttons with anchor motifs (one missing), machine stitched with commercial thread.

Techniques or Format

Fringes on the sleeves inserted into the seams and then cut on the diagonal to give them a downward flow. Also sewn into the seem on the welt pockets and armhole where they also have the diagonal cut. On the bottom the fringe is attached to the top edge. Cuffs are separate pieces of hide, sewn un with a curved seem in Western style

Yoke in two pieces extends across back with fringe inserted into bottom seam. Seams are overlapped and sewn with two parallel rows of stitching (like a French seam). The collar is sewn double, like a shirt collar. Back is in two pieces with centre back seam

Other Notes

TN - Very similar to a jacket in the Evelyn Johnson collection from Six Nations. A photo shows EJ wearing it as an elderly woman in the 1930s.

CW - This could be a woman's jacket as there are darts at the bust and slight inward curve at waist. It is not commercially made or mass produced - 'home made'. One clue is the diagonally cut fringes, seen on much older garments but not on commercial garments

Additional measurements: sleeve length - 66, sleeve circumference - 53, collar height - 4

Dimensions: 0 × 51 × 85.5 mm
Condition: The jacket has signs of wear and dirt around collar, cuffs, the buttonholes are stretched with metal residue. One brass button missing.
Reasons for connecting this relative with particular times, materials, styles and uses

Similarity to jacket in the Evelyn Johnson collection (ROM) datable to first few decades of the 20th century.

Catalogue, Accession or Reference Number: 911.3.212, HK.900
Date of Acquisition by the Institution: 1911
Who the Institution Acquired the Relative or Heritage Item From: Independent Order of Foresters
Publication History

F. Barlow Cumberland, Catalogue and Notes of the Oronhyatekha Historical Collection (Toronto: Independent Order of Foresters, 1904), p 24, Item 79. “Buckskin Coat of 'Coureur de bois'. Buckskin coats, deeply fringed, such as this, are mentioned by Fenimore Cooper as having been used by Leather Stocking and the woodsmen of his period."

GKS Reference Number: 532
How to Cite this Item

Unknown artist, buckskin coat. Currently in the Royal Ontario Museum, 911.3.212. Item photographed and described as part of a GRASAC research trip December 2008; GRASAC item id 532.

Approximate Place of Origin

45.8, -83.9

Source of Information about Places

Oronhyatekha's association with James Fennimore Cooper and the length of the fringes suggest Great Lakes rather than further West