breechcloth

breechcloth

breechcloth

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Introduction

Anishnaabe velveteen breech cloth with an asymmetrical floral pattern. This item was made by members of the Buffalo Bill troupe in New York City in 1908. Presented by Frederick M.E. Schaefer in 1963.

Nation of Maker: Anishinaabe
Nation of Origin

Chippewa, according to NMAI card catalogue.

Place of Origin: New York, NY
Date Made or Date Range: 1908
Summary of Source(s) for this Relative

NMAI records from collection acquisition, and physical examination by Cory Willmott and Ann McMullen, July 2007.

Materials

Black velveteen, black linen plain weave, black cotton sateen, wool tape (purple, dark green), sz. 10 seed beads (clear: gold, dark green, transparent, lime green, dusty rose, grey, light blue; greasy turquoise and blue, color-lined salmon, opalescent pink and bluish grey; opaque dusty rose, white, turquoise, two tones of lime green, yellow, medium green, light brown, periwinkle blue, navy.

Techniques or Format

Fabric base is machine sewn with sateen at center flanked by linen and then velvet base for beadwork. The linen and velvet parts are lined with linen and bound all around with wool tape with green on the sides and purple at both front and back ends. The sateen is unlined, with the edges folded over and machine-stitched down. The beadwork is sewn directly on to the velvet following a line pattern drawn on the fabric with flour or paste. Sewing is not visible on the back (underneath lining).

Motifs and Patterns

Asymetrical floral or pseudo symetrical typically Ojibwa floral motifs linked by meandering lines. Entirely different pattern on front and back. Large leaves, various flowers, circular berryish motifs, composite floral motifs. On one side, some motifs are symetrical from center axis, particularly those that are in four corners of design field. On the other side, there is a pseudo symetrical effect based around a diagonal line from bottom left to top right.

Original and Subsequent Uses

NMAI catalog card states: "Made expressly for Frederick Schaefer, (Sinta Maza), by Indian members of the Buffalo Bill troupe about 1908, during appearances at Madison Square Garden, New York City."

Reasons for connecting this relative with particular times, materials, styles and uses

NMAI records indicate that this item was made expressly for Frederick Schaefer (Sinta Maza) by Indian members of the Buffalo Bill troupe around 1908 during their appearences at Madison Square Garden, New York City.

Catalogue, Accession or Reference Number: 232572.000
Date of Acquisition by the Institution: 1/1/1963
Who the Institution Acquired the Relative or Heritage Item From: Presented by Frederick M. E. Schaefer in memory of his father Rudolph J. Schaefer.
Collection Narratives and Histories

Schaefer, Frederick M. E.; Gift/Presentation.

Exhibition History

Indian Art Travel Exhibit, 1973

Comment on Source of Exhibition & Publication Data

NMAI card catalogue.

GKS Reference Number: 25102
Record Creation Notes/Observations

This record was created on site at NMAI by the GRASAC members listed below. Ann McMullen and Pat Nietfeld of NMAI supported the research onsite. Cory Willmott's research was funded by a grant from the American Philosophical Society. Southern Illinois University Edwardsville provided Cory with an RA, Ceara Horsley, in Fall 2008 to work on GRASAC data entry. (CH)

Approximate Place of Origin

40.7128, -74.006

Source of Information about Places

NMAI card catalogue.