bag, chatelaine

bag, chatelaine

bag, chatelaine

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Introduction

A purse or bag decorated with floral beadwork and a beaded looped fringe. Based on its style it is likely Haudenosaunee and made between 1850 to 1890. Collected by British artist and folklorist Miss E. Canziani or her parents. Loaned to the Pitt Rivers Museum in 1941 and bequeathed in 1964.

Nation of Maker: Hodenosaunee/Haudenosaunee
Nation of Origin

RP says the bag is characteristic of the Hodenosaunee style of beadwork. Information from J.M. Heilman, III, Curator of Anthropology, Dayton Museum of Natural History, based on a visit to the Pitt Rivers Museum in November 1998: "...you have a beaded bag listed as being European that would appear to be of Iroquois manufacture from Western New York or just north of there in Ontario, Canada." Confirmed as Iroquois by Laura Peers. (Pitt Rivers Museum Object Catalogue entry)

Date Made or Date Range: 1850s-1880s
Summary of Source(s) for this Relative

Pitt Rivers Object catalogue and observations made by the GRASAC research team.

Materials

velveteen, black; cotton or linen, blue and burgundy; linen tape, brown; sizes 11 and 13 seed beads, in opaque white, green, yellow, pumpkin, dusty rose, red, translucent mustard and dark green, clear, greasy yellow, opalescent white; cardboard

Techniques or Format

The bag is made of black velveteen bound with blue and burgundy cotton or linen tape and lined with coarse brown linen. Its strap is made of brown linen tape. It is decorated with seed beads and has a looped fringe of size 13 yellow seed beads, strung on cotton thread. A cardboard pattern remains on the underside of the velvet. The beadwork is sewn on top of a cardboard pattern.

Motifs and Patterns

Motifs are stylized floral images, circular and spiked forms, both solid and striped.

Additional Context

The beadwork found on this item resembles the Hodenosaunee or Iroquoian style.

Dimensions: 23 × 12 × 9.3 cm
Condition: Good. (Heather Richardson, PRM conservator)
Reasons for connecting this relative with particular times, materials, styles and uses

The bead colours, material (black velvet as opposed to brown velvet/velveteen), use of trim, and design field, are all elements that suggest carry-over from earlier traditions (1850s).

Catalogue, Accession or Reference Number: 1941.8.043
Date of Acquisition by the Institution: 1941
Who the Institution Acquired the Relative or Heritage Item From: Estella Louisa Michaela Canziani or Enrico Francesco and Louisa [Starr] Canziani
Collection Narratives and Histories

Collected by Miss E. Canziani (3 Palace Green, Kensington W.8) or her parents, and loaned to the Pitt Rivers Museum in 1941. "Under the terms of Miss Canziani's will, all loans became gifts on her death in August 1964." (Pitt Rivers Museum Object Catalogue entry)

Sources to Learn More

More information on the life and collections of Estella Canziani can be found at http://england.prm.ox.ac.uk/englishness-Canziani-Introduction.html

Coote Lake, E.F, "Estella Canziani," Folklore, Vol.75 No.3 (Autumn, 1964): 206-208.

GKS Reference Number: 26661
Record Creation Context

This record was created as part of a Great Lakes Research Alliance for the Study of Aboriginal Arts and Cultures (GRASAC) research trip to the Pitt Rivers Museum and British Museum, December 8-22 2007, funded by a grant from the International Opportunities fund of the Social Sciences and Humanities Research Council (SSHRC).

Record Creation Notes/Observations

researchers present: Heidi Bohaker (HB), Al Corbiere (AC), Stacey Loyer (SL), Janis Monture (JM), Laura Peers (LP), Ruth Phillips (RP), Anne De Stecher (AS), Cory Willmott (CW).

Approximate Place of Origin

45.8, -83.9