Bag, Bandolier

Bag, Bandolier

Bag, Bandolier

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Introduction

This bandolier bag was hand sewn from Red British stroud and Calico. It has loom beadwork and two needle applique creating colorful geometric patterns including zig-zags, triangles, pinwheels, ‘underwater panther’, grape-like clusters, and an otter-tail border. Dated to ca. 1860-75. Missouri Historical Society accessioned item in 1962.

Date Made or Date Range: 1860-75
Materials

Red British stroud, plain-weave (1-1), single piece with holes; two layers of floral Calico backing (folded and sewed); two kinds of woolen tape binding ('fugitive' black, 'fugitive' blue); pouch lined in Calico, . Size 13 seed beads: shades of blue (6, however could be 5 depending on if one color name from different dye-lot), shades of green (1), shades of yellow/gold (2), shades of white (2), black, color-lined red, transparent red, dusty rose; greasy colors (dusty rose, milky white, yellow, two different dark turquoises) . Glass white button with hand sewn button hole with functional button. Cotton threads: loom weave thread, side threads. Tab: red, thin yarn.

Techniques or Format

Two-needle applique on linear trim; loom beadwork. Hand made button hole with functional button; no evidence of machine, all hand-sewn; tassels terminating the warp threads on the end of the tab. Real pouch. Strap backed on Calico, center and bottom panel are made of a single piece of red stroud folded over at the bottom, pouch lined with Calico. Panel and strap bound with woolen tape.

Motifs and Patterns

Tabs almost symmetrical (one tab missing, two tabs same design, but of different number of dots, and mirrored) with tassels on the ends. Bottom panel: vertically symmetrical, two pinwheels, plant stalk with two four petalled- flowers, two foliate motifs, one large central eight-point flower flanked by two connected dot patterns, connected rectangle motif at outer vertical edges, edged with two parallel lines with zig-zag in between. Central panel: contains button hole, edged with two parallel lines with the zig-zag in between. Strap: different left and right sides; left side: vertical axis with bilateral symmetry, triangles, pinwheels and 'underwater panther', repeating pattern of a group of geometric shapes that combine to the shape of a rectangle (or seen as an hourglass with a shape along the side), alternating with 8-point pinwheels, all with different colors, but color seems to be alternating along the diagonal within each unit; right side: vertically symmetrical design of hanging grape-like clusters, otter-tail border.

Dimensions: 8.25 × 9.25 × 0 in
Condition: Stroud has holes.
Reasons for connecting this relative with particular times, materials, styles and uses

AGG and CW based on fur trade materials, presence of stroud, loom-work style

Catalogue, Accession or Reference Number: 66-1982
Date of Acquisition by the Institution: 1962
Who the Institution Acquired the Relative or Heritage Item From: Missouri Historical Society
GKS Reference Number: 24887
Approximate Place of Origin

48.7, -84.6