Bag, Bandolier

Bag, Bandolier

Bag, Bandolier

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Introduction

This bandolier bag was made with red twill wool, painted calico, cream muslin lining, glass and lead beads. Techniques include loom woven beadwork, two-needle open applique, machine stitching, and hand stitching. Geometric designs include hourglass, diamond, maple leaf, five-pointed stars, and otter-tail borders in reddish brown, red, pink, light and dark blue, white, yellow, and turquoise. Item is attributed to 1860-1875 Anishinaabe, Ojibwe, from around Minnesota or Wisconsin and was accessioned into the collection from the Missouri Historical Society in 1962.

Nation of Maker: Anishinaabe
Date Made or Date Range: 1860-1875
Materials

Apparently size 12 seed beads but literally about 20 per inch, used on main pouch; the tabs; the strap; the tabs on the strap; on middle panel. Tabs at bottom of pouch and at bottom of strap have lead trade beads with a horizontal seam in middle, hollow and painted (?) reddish-brown; round faceted glass beads in transparent garnet color (3/16" diam.) and in opaque turquoise (1/4" diam.); opaque glass beads in dark sky blue color, very irregular size/shape but in range of 3/6"-5/16" diam. Low-quality red twill wool. Painted calico. Cream muslin lining. Wool tape, now green dark olive but originally black. Linen and cotton thread. Wool yarn tassels in natural white, navy, burgundy, dark teal. Purple iridescent glass button.

Techniques or Format

Loom-woven bottom panel and tabs; loom-woven strap panel and tabs; two-needle open applique on central panel. Machine stitching on woolen tape; hand basting; hand stitching. Fully-lined true pouch. Entire pouch panels are backed with calico; entire strap is backed with a second piece of same calico. Central panel is separate piece attached over top edge of bottom panel; strap attached to panels with 1" overlap. Bottom is sewn permanently through all layers of central panel, bisecting the pouch opening into two entry-points.

Motifs and Patterns

Strap: single repeating symmetrical motif with vertical center line (alternating hourglass and diamond) and otter-tail borders; orientation of the motif shifts direction due to neck curve of single-piece strap. The motif is a four-pointed leaf (poplar), which might possibly also be suggestive of a T-bird in two color variations, one a base of dusty rose with leaf-points of navy, the second is periwinkle base with transparent burgundy points; some bead color anomalies appear deliberate in their placement (heads of T-birds?), others may or may not be deliberately placed; motif repeats as alternating groups of four. Outer otter-tail border motifs are navy outline filled in with greasy yellow. Center line motif is transparent amber color. Background is white. Single panel terminates on both ends with a motif of alternating navy rectangles and four tabs with ottertail motif (alternating symmetry, outer tabs are navy outline with dusty rose interior, inner tabs reverse; small bead color anomalies also), ending with trade bead and a wool tassel; between each pair of tabs on either side are trade bead fringes ending with wool tassels. [new par] Center panel: vertically symmetrical motif with central five-pointed white leaf (maple) flanked by two green five-pointed stars (oriented with two points up); entire panel outlined in single line of white beads along bottom are four Vs at intervals. [new par] Bottom panel: white background; four horizontal rows of the four-pointed poplar leaf (but with some difference); all motif leaf centers are navy, with either dusty rose or transparent burgundy leaf points , arranged in alternating color pairs going across the horizontal (but offset color rows to create checkerboard pattern). Between each row are rows of greasy green hourglasses. Top border is a line of connected rectangles outlined in navy with turquoise center. Two outside vertical borders are otter-tail with transparent burgundy outline, transparent gold inside. Bottom border has a row of four short lines and below between every pair of the motif, and below another row of small rectangles, all in turquoise. Bottom tabs also alternate the same leaf motif, seeming to continue to broader panel pattern, but with one tab in the other color; tabs end with trade beads and wool tassels.

Dimensions: 20.75 × 12.5 × 0 in
Reasons for connecting this relative with particular times, materials, styles and uses

CW based on bead size, color; fabric type; machine stitching. Calico print and trade beads could be investigated for diagnostic.

Catalogue, Accession or Reference Number: 66-1960
Date of Acquisition by the Institution: 1962
Who the Institution Acquired the Relative or Heritage Item From: Missouri Historical Society
GKS Reference Number: 26616
Approximate Place of Origin

46.8139, -71.208