women's legging cuffs

women's legging cuffs

women's legging cuffs

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Introduction

Indigo blue serge women's legging cuffs with beaded ottertail, skydome and mountain motifs. Great Lakes region, 19th century.

Nation of Maker: Anishinaabe
Reasons for connecting this relative with particular nation(s)

CW: style

Date Made or Date Range: 19 C
Summary of Source(s) for this Relative

British Museum records and physical observation by GRASAC members Cory Willmott and Heidi Bohaker.

Materials

Body: serge!. A linen warp, woolen weft in a plain weave that is quite open, it might be 2X2 plain weave. Colour: indigo blue. Warp threads are a kind of a dark brown. Binding is a coarse linen, plain weave, colour unbleached. Beads: size 11 seed beads in white, dusty rose (translucent), greasy yellow and teal, translucent green and rose, and opaque gold colour. Back is lined with another kind of very poor quality woolen cloth in a dark brown colour that actually might be a worsted kind of blend. The warp is black and the weft is brown.

Techniques or Format

The beading has been done through both layers of cloth. (conventionally done that way).

Motifs and Patterns

Classic linear beadwork but multi-colour, CW says a transitional style. 3 rows of otter tails with a row inbetween of wavy lines and then between the upper two, a netted diamond pattern. At the top, another row of wavy lines. On top of that, alternating skydome and mountian motifs. Bottom otter tail row extends up to the side flap.

Other Notes

BM record as of December 21, 2007 Item name "Serge coat facing, black with polychrome beadwork embroidery." CW says the reason for misidentification is most likely the fact that the top of the legging has been cut off -- these are just the cuffs.

Condition: Classic linear beadwork but multi-colour, CW says a transitional style. 3 rows of otter tails with a row inbetween of wavy lines and then between the upper two, a netted diamond pattern. At the top, another row of wavy lines. On top of that, alternating skydome and mountain motifs. Bottom otter tail row extends up to the side flap.
Reasons for connecting this relative with particular times, materials, styles and uses

Fabric dates to 3rd quarter of 19th century even though style dates to the 1st quarter of the 19th century.

Current Location: British Museum, London, UK
Catalogue, Accession or Reference Number: Am 1949, 06.12.a-b
GKS Reference Number: 25772
How to Cite this Item

Unknown Anishinaabe artist, women's legging cuffs. Currently in the British Museum, Am 1949, 06.12.a-b. Item photographed and described as part of a GRASAC research trip December 2007; GRASAC item id 25772.

Record Creation Context

This record was created created on site at the British Museum by Cory Willmott and Heidi Bohaker. Cory Willmott's research was funded by a grant from Pasold Research Fund. Heidi was funded by “a grant from the International Opportunities fund of the Social Sciences and Humanities Research Council (SSHRC). Southern Illinois University Edwardsville provided Cory with an RA, Ceara Horsley, for 2009 and 2010 to work on GRASAC data entry. (CH)

Record Creation Notes/Observations

Created on site at the British Museum by Cory Willmott and Heidi Bohaker, December 2007.