Fine Rainbow cloth (blue) with most selvedge cut off in order to bind into the edges of side flap; broadcloth (black); Lining = cotton with small woven motif (navy), silk ribbon: wide (dark red, medium red, turquoise, dark lime green; purple); medium width (mint green, red , purple, cream, black, royal blue); sz. 11 seed beads (greasy turquoise and clear transparent); sz. 10 seed beads (color lined salmon; clear: yellow, red; opalescent pearl, opaque: lemon yellow, pink, dusty rose, periwinkle), cotton thread.

Two rectangles, each sewn together on one side to form tube with wide side flap. Flaps covered with 5 " wide panel of ribbonwork which goes up to 3" below top edge. Sewing of back to front (to create legging) done at an expanding angle from cuff to top. At top of panel there are two beadwork pendants attached. These also attach to black cloth used as ties to attach to belt. There is also a beadwork column inside the ribbonwork panel. Beadwork is floral applique; pendents are fully filled in; column is composed of descrete elements linked by a wavy line.

Ribbonwork panel on front has variation of ottertail with three columns surrounded by wide solid color ribbons; back has a single wide ribbon on side panel. Cuffs are the same on front and back and have a narrower variation of ottertail surrounded by wide solid color ribbon. Beadwork design on the flaps consists of wavy lines with tulip-like flowers inside the waves of alternating color combos. The pattern on the pendants is the same, except that the background is filled in and the flowers are three petaled and almost the same throughout. Oddly, the background is clear dark red. The pendants terminate in ribbon three layered tabs with elaborate cut out and pinked designs. The edges are bound with ribbon all around the sides and cuffs. There are two rows of a single line of applique stitch clear beads on the outside of the flaps. On the pendants, the outer edge is bound with ribbon and decorated with a single row of running stitch in transparent beads. The remains of the rainbow selvedge are visible above the ribbon binding of the back flap.

AM and CW agree that small overlapping diamonds are more characteristic of east of Lake Michigan.

NMAI collection records.

W.C. Barnard collection

This record was created on site at NMAI by the GRASAC members listed below. Ann McMullen and Pat Nietfeld of NMAI supported the research onsite. Cory Willmott's research was funded by a grant from the American Philosophical Society. Southern Illinois University Edwardsville provided Cory with an RA, Ceara Horsley, in Fall 2008 to work on GRASAC data entry. (CH)