chatelaine bag

chatelaine bag

chatelaine bag

top image
Introduction

Chatelaine bag, beaded, possibly Onkwehonwe, made 1860s - 1870s.

Date Made or Date Range: 1860s to 1870s
Materials

made of brown velvet; beads (3 sizes: 12, 10, 8 size seed beads in white, greasy green, greasy royal blue, greasy gold, transparent (clear, raspberry); opaque (2 shades of dusty rose; turquoise); inexpensive cotton binding used around edge; lining of coarse linen; inexpensive cotton backing on flap.;

Techniques or Format

appliqued beadwork, similar to "lazy stitch", cardboard backing for beadwork visible between velveteen outer surface and inexpensive dark brown cotton backing on flap

Other Notes

Ruth Phillips: This was a very popular style of bag made for sale to tourists at Niagara Falls and other resorts by women at Tuscarora and other Haudenosaunee communities. The shape of the bag was copied from the 'chatelaine' style worn at the waist by Victorian women. The Haudenosaunee version and beadwork were admired by non-Native women and a pattern for imitating it was published in a British woman's magazine in 1857 (Phllips 1998: 218-219) There are also a number of 19th-century photographs and cartes de visite that show non-Native women wearing them, indicating that they were valued and used for formal dress. (Biron 2006: 34-37)
(Please note that the term Haudenosaunee is now being replaced by Onkwehonwe. July 23, 2009).

Condition: very good
Reasons for connecting this relative with particular times, materials, styles and uses

;;third quarter of the 19th c

Catalogue, Accession or Reference Number: A.1984.68
Sources to Learn More

Ruth B. Phillips, Trading Identities: The souvenir in Native North American Art from the Northeast, 1700-1900, Seattle: University of Washington press, 1998. Gerry Biron, Made of Thunder, Made of Glass: American Indian Beadwork of the Northeast, Saxtons River, VT, 2006

GKS Reference Number: 24829
How to Cite this Item

Unknown Haudenosaunee artist, chatelaine bag. Currently at National Museums Scotland, A.1984.68. Item photographed and described as part of a GRASAC research trip December 2007 in which the author took part; GRASAC item id 24829.

Record Creation Notes/Observations

9 Apr 2007 Ruth Phillips, On-site researchers: Cory Willmott, Heidi Bohaker, Laura Peers, Ruth Phillips, Keith Jamieson, Alan Corbiere, Henrietta Lidchi, Robert Storrie, Chantal Knowles, Brenda McGoff

Approximate Place of Origin

43.6, -71.9