belt, woven

belt, woven

belt, woven

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Introduction

A remarkable 18th-century belt of woven porcupine quills whose motifs resemble those seen on Haudenosaunee/Hodenosaunee burden straps. The woven technique indicates an Anishinaabe maker. Acquired from Trinity College Library, University of Cambridge to the Cambridge University Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology. Described in the "Z accession register" as a "strip of quillwork" deposited by Trinity College 1914.

Nation of Maker: Anishinaabe
Reasons for connecting this relative with particular nation(s)

Loom woven quillwork is known to be a technique used by Anishinaabe women.

Date Made or Date Range: 1750 to 1820
Summary of Source(s) for this Relative

Museum documentation and the GRASAC research team.

Materials

linen cloth, white; porcupine quills, natural and dyed blue-green, red-orange, black and yellow; linen thread; twisted vegetable fibre warps which do not appear to be nettle stalk but rather possibly basswood or another inner bark.

Techniques or Format

A long band of loom woven quillwork with 13 'channels' in the weave is backed with a pieced strip of white linen cloth, whip stitched to the edge with linen thread. The warps were left long and form a fringe on both ends.

Motifs and Patterns

Geometric motifs: alternating "L" shapes, diagonal lines of triangles, stepped triangles, and another complex form.

Other Notes

The motifs on the belt closely resemble those seen on Hodenosaunee burden straps woven of nettle stalk fibre with 'false embroidered' designs in moosehair or quills.

Condition: Excellent. The original colours can be seen.
Reasons for connecting this relative with particular times, materials, styles and uses

This attribution is based on the similarity of the belt's designs to burden straps collected in the eighteenth century.

Catalogue, Accession or Reference Number: Z 15309
Date of Acquisition by the Institution: 1914
Collection Narratives and Histories

Acquired from Trinity College Library, University of Cambridge. Tag in old fashioned handwriting says: Trinity College / Library 2nd lot / May 20, 1914. The name Jennings has been associated with this item in the electronic catalogue, but is probably a mistake.

Exhibition History

Archives of MAA`"A list of antiquities and curiosities other than books, mss, inscriptions, pictures, busts and coins, preserved in the library of Trinity College, April 1914.`' p 14 `"In the small chest of drawers known as Newton's Instrument Case, drawer 10 [?] Canadian bag [beaded border], two shoes, and belt" also "On drawer 3 Sir Isaac Newton's name is written with the date 1667"
A second document called "Museum of Archaeology and Ethnology" lists all the items transferred from Trinity College Library to MAA and on p 3 of this document is listed "Canadian bag (beaded border) 2 shoes and belt"

GKS Reference Number: 24477
How to Cite this Item

Unknown Anishinaabe artist, belt, woven. Currently in the Cambridge University Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology, Z 15309. Item photographed and described as part of a GRASAC research trip May 2009; GRASAC item id 24477.

Record Creation Context

This record was created as part of a GRASAC research trip to Cambridge University's Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology, May 4-9 2009.

Approximate Place of Origin

43.6, -71.9