Materials

Red stroud with black stroud collar and cuffs, 1/4 inch gold mettalic tape, and undecorated circular disk shaped flat brass buttons, 3/4 inch in diameter, which could be original Four buttons on each sleeve, nine down centre front, and two vertical rows of three in back at waist ). In addition, there are two smaller 1/2 inch diameter buttons on back of collar. Linen thread dyed red hand stitched in button-hole stitch forms the horizontal raised lines on either side of the front opening. The sleeves appear to be lined in finely woven linen cloth. A more coarsely woven linen cloth partially lines the side front panels. The button holes and the front buttons have white stroud interfacing.

Techniques or Format

Front is cut in two pieces opening in the centre front without any significant overlap. Stand-up collar without lapels, typical of the turn of the late 18th and early 19th century. Sleeves are sewn of two pieces with a small trapezoidal inset under the arm. The coat is very narrow in the chest, fitted to the waist and flared in the skirt. the intricate tailoring of the back is typical of late 18th century men's coats, fitted with two side gores, inverted deep pleat in the back skirt. Two narrow flaps attached to the inset panel with four of the buttons. Two holes in fabric on right shoulder may have been for attachment of epaulette.

Motifs and Patterns

Gold braid appliqued in four chevron shapes on lower sleeves, nine diagonal lines formed of embroidery on either side of the front opening.

Other Notes

The coat is cut in a European style with military insignia They were usually made of red or blue stroud or other woolen cloth and ornamented with materials such as gold braid, shiny buttons and contrasting trim similar, but not identical to, military uniforms. Coats such as this were presented to Indigenous chiefs by fur traders and colonial officials in the 18th and 19th centuries. Fur traders conferred the status of 'chief' by presenting such coats, a status that could be later confirmed in other ways. AC: In historical documents, the Anishinaabe are recorded as referring to a chief known as "The Illinois" as "miskokonaye," which means the one wearing red, or "red coat."

The lining and use of European tailoring techniques (use of interfacing) is more like the construction of military uniforms than other chief's coats that Cory Willmott has seen. Trudy Nicks: the style of the Chief's coats is distinctive in contrast to military uniforms. For example, the placement of the chevrons is different,

CW - the armhole is unusually wide and roomy

Additional measurements

chest (from bottom of underarm) 42

collar 8.5 high

sleeve length to shoulder 71

armhole circumference - 50

Dimensions: 0 × 77 × 108.5 cm

Condition: the entire coat appears to have been taken apart by a conservator and all sections have been lined with a red woolen fabric except the centre back pieces, and that is because there is extensive moth damage and you can see the lining fabric through the holes. One busson missiong at top neck. The brass buttons have probably been polished.

Reasons for connecting this relative with particular times, materials, styles and uses

Given to Chief Oshawana by the British during the War of 1812.

Current Location: Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto, ON, Canada

Catalogue, Accession or Reference Number: 911.3.119; HD6294,

Date of Acquisition by the Institution: 1911

Who the Institution Acquired the Relative or Heritage Item From: Independent Order of Foresters

Collection Narratives and Histories

Independent Order of Foresters

Publication History

F. Barlow Cumberland, Catalogue and Notes of the Oronhyatekha Historical Collection (Toronto: Independent Order of Foresters, 1904), p 135, "Case 29. Indian Chiefs' Uniforms. These red coats with brass buttons and bullion braid are such as were given to chiefs of Indian tribes in 1812 and early Canadian days as uniforms denoting their rank. One of these was the property of Oshawana, the other of George King, a Chippewa warrior of the Caradoc reservation.

Under the treaties made by the Canadian government with the Indians in the North-West after Confederation, and the settlement with the Hudson's Bay Co., each of the Indian Chiefs was given in addition a special red coat as well as his annual bounty."

GKS Reference Number: 1190

How to Cite this Item

Unknown artist, coat of Chief Oshawana. Currently in the Royal Ontario Museum, 911.3.119. Item photographed and described as part of a GRASAC research trip December 2008; GRASAC item id 1190.

Record Creation Context

GRASAC team research trip to the Royal Ontario Museum,Dec 15-19, 2008. Heidi Bohaker, Alan Corbiere, Lewis Debassige, Anne De Stecher, Judy Harris (Dec 16-17) Darlene Johnston, Stacey Loyer, Trudy Nicks, Ruth Phillips, Tracey Forster.

Monday Dec 15, Ethnology collection team: Alan Corbiere, Lewis Debassige, Trudy Nicks, Cory Willmott, Ruth Phillips, and Anne de Stecher with the assistance of Tracy Forster